Klemen Premrl climbing Wolverine WI 11, the hardest ice climb in the world and the first of its grade in Wells Gray Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada, with Tim Emmett. <br />
Photo: Andrew Querner

I first tied to a climbing rope at the age of twelve. By the age of fifteen I climbed several routes in Julian Alps and Italian Dolomites, both in winter and summer conditions. Soon, I found ice climbing as the most joyful art of climbing, and from that moment on, I’m just crazy about it!

In 1997 I did my first trip to Canada, searching for some hard ice. I found some steepness on Riptide WI 7, which was the first WI 7 for Slovenian climbers.

In 1998 I introduced a new wave of climbing to Slovenia, by opening the first modern mixed route Bone of contention, M7.

From 1999 -2003 I was competing in IWC - Ice Climbing World Cup, and I was always one of those who fight for the prestigious places amongst finalists.

After some intense seasons of modern mixed and competition climbing, I focused on longer ice, mixed and alpine routes. I travelled to Canada and Norway many times, putting up new routes in Canadian Rockies, Lofoten islands and some other nice places beyond Arctic Circle.

Last few winters I climbed in Helmcken falls, Canada, BC. Tim Emmett and I did a first ascent of Wolverine, WI 11, which could as well be the hardest ice route ever done, and it is the only one of its controversial grade. We climbed to the top of the Helmcken falls for the first time, by a new route Spray on...Top, WI 10, M9+ 240 m, which is the most epic and arguably the hardest ice / mixed route in the world, and we did the first ascent of Clash of the Titans, WI10+, which is another ice masterpiece. While being there, I repeated Spray on, WI 10, and a mix masterpiece Overhead Hazard, M 12, 240m.

Now, adventure is objective! Part of that adventure is not to follow trends, but to be a trendsetter!

Greenland: I did this trip to the west coast of Greenland in summer of 2014, to make a short promo film To Climb an Iceberg in 4K for GoPro. Basically, this trip was about climbing Icebergs, but deep down in me, it was more about fighting fears, bringing believing to another level and reaching to my dreams!

Iceland: I’m used to climb ice, but on that trip, we went deeper. And I mean this literally! We were on a mission of exploring the underworld of glaciers, and trying to figure out how to climb in there. Part of the daily menu was climbing out of deep dark glacier moulins or better yet on the ceilings of crystal ice caves. Then for the dinner, we would climb the cave in the iceberg with northern lights for a background… Adventure par excellence!

You can read about our adventure see our film Climbing Ice - The iceland Trifecta, or browse some stunning pictures.

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